Trat is best known for being the embarkation point for the islands of Ko Chang, Ko Mak where we were returning from, and Ko Kood. Few people in general take the time to stop and visit the region, outside of the islands. However, Trat has some unique attractions which I suggest you discover in today’s article.
It was still quite early in the day and rather than heading straight back to Bangkok, we thought we could take advantage of the opportunity to quickly visit the surrounding area.
A brief overview:
In the footsteps of history, memory of the (short) Franco-Siamese war
Many people do not know this, but between October 1940 and May 1941, when the world was tearing itself apart, there was a brief war between France and Thailand (then kingdom of Siam).
A well-known feat of arms in the region is the Battle of Ko Chang. From a French point of view, the battle of ko chang is the only naval battle fought and won during the two world wars by a French naval force, on exclusively French plans and with exclusively French means.
Concretely, the French army, then in Indochina, wanted to launch an offensive against the Thai navy, while they were attacking on their side on the lands of Laos and Cambodia (taking advantage of the destabilization of the Vichy government in Europe, in order to recover lands which had once belonged to Siam), and which France was struggling to repel.
The battle in question resulted in a heavy toll on the Thai side, according to the official Thai version, 36 of them lost their lives, other sources speak of between 300 and 500 men involved in the battle with only 82 survivors... While the French fleet was able to return safe and sound, without losses.
Obviously, from a Thai point of view, the story is told that the brave soldiers made the French retreat... Propaganda to whom you tell... But it is difficult to say with certainty who is right or wrong in this story, since with Vichy it was not better...
Source of information:
For the battle itself: Wikipedia
On the Franco-Siamese War in general: Franco-Siamese War 1940-1941
Not far from Laem Ngop pier, which connects the continent to the islands in the region (including Ko Chang which is opposite us), a monument was built in memory of the Thai soldiers who died during this naval battle.
Unfortunately, it is a site entirely in Thai, no indications in English accompany the period photos and maps...
You can optionally complement this visit with the other memorial (the Ko Chang Yutthanawi Memorial), located on a beach in Ko Chang.
Mangroves and black sand beach
As I mentioned about the rocks seen on Ko Mak, the region is volcanic. The result is visible on this black sand beach, typical of a volcanic type beach.
Shortly after returning to the road by which we had arrived in the area, we saw these signs indicating this beach. Intrigued, we decided to go and have a look.
We then passed on a small narrow road (not easy to find but indicated by an arch written in Thai, at the entrance of said road), bordered by the mangrove, very present along this coast. We parked on a parking lot, next to a small reception building.
The area is currently being developed, but already a wooden footbridge allows you to stroll through the mangroves to the sea. It's free so don't miss out. At least it gives us a bit of shade on this hot day, especially on the last part, older with more bushy mangrove (the rest being sparser, because planted more recently, in order to prevent coastal erosion).
We walk for 500 m. But there is no beach since we arrive directly at the sea, bordered all along by mangroves as far as the eye can see. On the other hand, you can see signs indicating "Foot Massage" with a small staircase leading to this black sandbank.
And when you set foot on this black sand, you understand why, it is very pleasant! This one is of a finesse never felt before! As for the beach itself, you have to walk a little further, but what is certain is that it is especially visible during low tides.
Small beaches to relax on
Mostly used by locals. Again, it was by following a sign indicating a beach that we landed on this little piece of lost beach, a few dozen kilometers before the Laem Ngop quay.
We had to pay for parking (20 baht), even though we didn't stay very long (we still had a long way to go after that). It's the kind of place where I can hardly go unnoticed! We only saw Thais there., many with family or friends, taking advantage of this beautiful day to picnic (and drink too) and let the children splash around.
As always, there was also the possibility of eating on site. There was also a recent hotel located there. Of course, due to lack of time, we could have seen more, especially by going to Trat itself (a few dozen kilometers from Laem Ngop), but basically, the article is there to pique your curiosity and push you to discover a little of the real Thailand, these little corners often juxtaposed with known places (often, places of passage) but often ignored, generally due to lack of time but not only.
For those who are curious, this is Ao Tan Beach:
So, mission accomplished? Does this make you want to stop for a while in the region?
